The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux, Mdina

The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux is a 5-star hotel set in a 17th-century palace. It stands on the walls of Mdina, just past the main gate. It is the only hotel inside the walls of the old capital. Opened in 1999, it belongs to the Relais & Châteaux group. It has 17 rooms and suites, each decorated differently. Antique furniture, paintings and king-size beds set the tone.

Categories range from duplex rooms to the presidential suite of around 65 m². Rooms on the ramparts side look out over much of the island. Some suites have a private terrace with a jacuzzi. The duplexes have a sitting room downstairs and a bedroom upstairs. A fairly steep staircase links the two.

The de Mondion, a Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant, sits on the ramparts. It opens for dinner, Tuesday to Saturday. Trattoria AD 1530 serves pizza, pasta and grills every day, on a terrace on the square. Breakfast is served at the table on the panoramic top-floor terrace. The hotel has no proper bar.

There is no spa or pool on site. A seasonal outdoor pool is available at the Xara Lodge, near Rabat. It opens from June to September, with a free shuttle from the hotel. A fitness room and in-room massages round things off. Children are welcome, and some rooms connect for families.

Recent reviews praise the staff above all. They are mentioned in two thirds of detailed comments. The personal welcome, sightseeing tips and the presence of the management come up often. The setting also wins everyone over: a genuine 17th-century palace, furnished with antiques. Guests appreciate the small touches, such as the welcome drink or complimentary local produce. Housekeeping and the evening turndown receive the same praise.

The location is the other great strength. Staying inside Mdina lets you enjoy the empty city in the evening and early morning. During the day, the crowds of visitors stay outside the hotel’s door, and it remains very quiet. Breakfast on the panoramic terrace is a highlight of the stay. Dinner at the de Mondion is often described as the high point of the trip. The Trattoria offers a simpler option for other evenings. The rooms are considered spacious and the beds very comfortable.

The first disappointment concerns the pool. Many discover on arrival that it is outside the hotel, a few minutes away by car. It also closes from October to May. Several guests regret the lack of a bar for a drink. Breakfast served at the table can be slow, and hot dishes cost extra. As Mdina is pedestrianised, arriving by car also takes some planning. Finally, a few rooms feel dark or dated for the price.

The Xara Palace is best suited to couples, for a romantic getaway or an anniversary. It also appeals to lovers of history and fine dining. Two or three nights are enough to enjoy Mdina and Rabat. With reduced mobility, it is best to avoid the duplexes. Travellers who want a pool and the sea on their doorstep should choose a beach hotel instead.

The Xara Palace overlooks Misrah il-Kunsill square, in the heart of Mdina’s old town. The city’s main gate is a two-minute walk away. St Paul’s Cathedral and Palazzo Vilhena are close by. Rabat, its restaurants and the Domus Romana are a five-minute walk away. Buses to Valletta leave from the entrance to Mdina. By car, allow around 25 minutes to the capital. The international airport is 15 km away, a 20 to 25-minute drive.

Good to know: Mdina is a pedestrian zone. Regular taxis stop at the city gate. Ask the hotel to arrange your transfer so you are dropped at the entrance. The free public car park is outside the walls.